The Fire That Couldn't Destroy a Food City

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11 Jul

When I visited San Sebastián with my wife Claire, I somehow managed to arrive right in the middle of the annual 31st August commemorations. A festival I had absolutely no idea about, despite being a bit of a military history nerd! It turns out the British feature quite prominently in the story… and not always in the most flattering light.

Napoleonic Soulders shooting muskets in San Sebastian re-enactment — 31st August Re-enactment

The events being remembered date back to 1813, when San Sebastián became one of the key battle sites of the Peninsular War between Napoleonic France and the Allied forces of Britain, Portugal and Spain.

By this stage, Wellington’s army was pushing the French back towards the Pyrenees, and San Sebastián, heavily fortified and strategically vital, remained one of France’s last major strongholds on the northern coast.

Image of soldiers re-enacting 31st august festival San Sebastian — Re-Enactment

After an initial failed assault in July, a second siege in August eventually breached the city walls following sustained bombardment. On 31 August 1813, Allied troops pushed into the city and intense fighting broke out in the streets.

What followed is the part of the story that the city still reflects on today. In the confusion after the assault, discipline broke down and much of San Sebastián was left exposed to fire and widespread destruction. The medieval city was almost entirely lost.

It’s not exactly the sort of thing you expect to stumble into while on a relaxed trip to northern Spain with your wife.

And yet, what’s striking today is not the destruction itself, but what came after. San Sebastián rebuilt itself into one of Europe’s most elegant coastal cities with sweeping boulevards, Belle Époque architecture and, of course, an almost unfair concentration of world-class food.

Every year on 31 August, the city marks the events in a way that feels more reflective than theatrical. If anything, it adds another layer to the place. And if you can, it’s actually a fascinating time to visit. There’s a real sense of the city acknowledging its past while very much enjoying its present.

Which, given the pintxos situation today, feels like a pretty good balance in my books!

Rob

Discover San Sebastian in our Restaurants

Side image of three pintxos and bottle of txakoli with glass of wine — Pintxos and Txakoli

San Sebastián may have an incredible past, but let's be honest… we're all here for the food.

This month we've been inspired by the Basque Country, with a selection of San Sebastián Specials celebrating the dishes and drinks that make the city famous. Think perfectly paired pintxos (standard & vegan), crisp txakoli and a little slice of northern Spain without the Ryanair baggage allowance.

Come and give them a try while they're on the menu. Available throughout July

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